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• Apron: Attached to
the front of the carriage, it has the mechanism and controls for moving
the carriage and cross slide.
• Bed: Usually made of
cast iron. Provides a heavy rigid frame on which all the main components
are mounted.
• Carriage: Moves on
the outer ways. Used for mounting and moving most the cutting tools
• Chuck: 3-jaw (self
centering) or 4-jaw (independent) to clamp part being machined.
• Compound Rest:
Mounted to the cross slide, it pivots around the tool post.
• Cross Slide: Mounted
on the traverse slide of the carriage, and uses a handwheel to feed
tools into the work piece.
• Feed Rod: Has a
keyway, with two reversing pinion gears, either of which can be meshed
with the mating bevel gear to forward or reverse the carriage using a
clutch.
• Follow Rest: Bolted
to the lathe carriage, it uses adjustable fingers to bear against the
work piece opposite the cutting tool to prevent deflection.
• Gearbox: inside the
headstock, providing multiple speeds with a geometric ratio by moving
levers.
• Headstock: mounted
in a fixed position on the inner ways, usually at the left end. Using a
chuck, it rotates the work.
• Lead Screw: For
cutting threads.
• Quick Change Gearbox:
Controls the movement of the carriage using levers.
• Split Nut: When closed around the lead screw, the carriage is
driven along by direct drive without using a clutch.
• Steady Rest: Clamped
to the lathe ways, it uses adjustable fingers to contact the work piece
and align it. Can be used in place of tailstock to support long or
unstable parts being machined.
• Spindle: Hole
through the headstock to which bar stock can be fed.
• Tailstock: Fits on
the inner ways of the bed and can slide towards any position the
headstock to fit the length of the work piece. An optional taper turning
attachment would be mounted to it.
• Tailstock Quill:
Has a Morse taper to hold a lathe center, drill bit or other tool.
• Tool Post: To mount
tool holders in which the cutting bits are clamped.
• Ways: Inner and
outer guide rails that are precision machined parallel to assure
accuracy of movement.
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Centre Lathe
http://mmu.ic.polyu.edu.hk
The term
Centre Lathe is derived from the fact that in its operation the lathe holds
a piece of material between two rigid supports called centres, or by some
other device such as a chuck or faceplate which revolves about the centre
line of the lathe.
The lathe
shown is a typical example. This machine is usually used in a jobbing
(one off) situation or for small batch work where it would be
too expensive to specially 'tool up' for just a few items.
Setting the Tool height.
The Lathe Tool should be set at the same height as the central rotating
axis of the machine. It is done by lowering or raising the tool (held in
the tool post) to the height of the tail stock centre.
Failure to do so will result will result in uneven
cutting during operation and higher than usual wear of the tool.
Furthermore as the work rotates and hits the tool it results in uneven
cutting which causes vibrations resulting in a poor finish on the work
piece.
WATCH
A DEMO click
lathe setting tool height
by
http://www.jjjtrain.com
Producing a cylindrical surface
As the workpiece held in the chuck turns, the cutting tool held
in the tool post is fed incrementally in passes into the side of the work piece.
As the cutting tool progresses along the workpiece, it reduces the
diameter of of the workpiece.
WATCH
A DEMO click
I-Turning
by
http://www-me.mit.edu/MachineTools/Videos/l_turning.mpg
Facing off
- a flat surface is produced at the end of a workpiece . The cutting action is perpendicular to the axis of rotation
of the workpiece.
WATCH
A DEMO click
facing off
by
http://www-me.mit.edu
Drilling with a lathe
(Text information derived from
http://www.mini-lathe.com)
This is a
2
stage process
The alignment between the headstock
and tailstock of the lathe enables you to drill holes that are precisely
centered in a cylindrical piece of stock. Before you drill into the end
of a workpiece you should first
face
the end.
STAGE 1 Centre drilling
The next step is to start the drill hole
using a center drill - a stiff, stubby drill with a short tip. If you try to
drill a hole without first center drilling, the drill will almost certainly
wander off center, producing a hole that is oversized and misaligned. Choose
a center drill with a diameter similar to that of the hole that you intend
to drill.
WATCH
A DEMO click
Centre
Drilling by http://www.jjjtrain.com
STAGE 2 Drilling into the
workpiece
Always use a cutting fluid when drilling.
You only need a few drops at a time,
Remove the center drill from the chuck and
insert a regular drill. Slide the tailstock until the tip of the drill is
about 6mm from the workpiece and then lock the tailstock in place. Place a
few drops of cutting fluid on the tip of the drill, then start the lathe and
drill into the workpiece as before, at the correct speed for the workpiece.
After advancing the drill about twice its
diameter, back it out of the hole and use a brush to remove the metal chips
from the tip of the drill. Add a few more drops of cutting fluid if
necessary, then continue drilling, backing the drill out to remove chips
about every 2 diameters of depth.
WATCH
A DEMO click
Drilling
by http://www.jjjtrain.com
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